Byline: Compiled by Sandy Kallio Wisconsin State Journal
The food of the gods now is the little luxury of the common man, woman and child around the world. More than a million tons of cocoa beans are harvested each year to satisfy their demands. The Swiss demand the most per capita: 22 pounds of chocolate each year, compared to 11 pounds per person in the United States.
Chocolate's popularity has more to do with flavor than health benefits, but those who imbibe are encouraged by research indicating that chocolate might help prevent heart attacks and strokes -- if consumed in moderation.
There is a down side to the growing demand for chocolate, however. Human rights violations on cocoa plantations have been reported, and thousands of acres of rainforest have been destroyed to make way for cocoa plantations.
Rather than focus only on the sweet, Olbrich Botanical Gardens is telling the whole story through an exhibit opening Friday. 'Chocolate: The Bitter and the Sweet' is a self-guided exhibit covering related history, myths, marvels and perils. Here's a taste of the exhibit, with added flavoring from several other sources.
Origin
While chocolate originated in the Amazon River basin, today cacao (pronounced kah kow) trees are grown in tropical areas throughout the world. The center of cocoa production is in West Africa.
The name
Chocolate is made from the seeds of the cacao tree. A spelling error led to the seeds becoming known as cocoa beans. The plant's botanical name is Theobroma, which means 'food of the gods.'
Blossoms to baking bars
* Tiny blossoms grow on the trunk and low branches of the cacao tree, an evergreen that grows in an area 10 to 20 degrees north and south of the equator. While North American fruit trees flower, then produce fruit, cacao flowers and fruit can grow at the same time all year long.
* The cacao pods are oval-shaped, about 8 to 14 inches long and change color as they ripen.
* Harvesting the pods is labor-intensive, with workers trying not to damage flowers or immature pods as they cut ripe pods from the trees with large knives.
* Pods are split by hand and the beans removed -- 20 to 60 seeds per pod, with at least 20 pods needed to make 2 pounds of cocoa.
* Beans are fermented to reduce bitterness and develop the aroma. They then are dried and cleaned before shipping for processing.
* The raw beans are roasted. The higher the temperature, the more bitter the chocolate.
* Roasted beans are ground to produce cocoa powder and cocoa liquor (non-alcoholic), and the beans are pressed to extract cocoa butter.
* The ground cocoa is blended back with the cocoa butter and liquor to make different types of chocolate. (The flavor of the chocolate varies with the blend of beans, just like for coffee.) The finest plain chocolate contains at least 70 percent cocoa. Some mass-produced chocolate contains as little as 7 percent cocoa and can't even be classified as chocolate.
* Refined chocolate is kept liquid by friction through a process called conching, which helps develop a smooth, creamy texture.
* The chocolate is tempered to distribute the cocoa butter evenly. This process involves cooling, heating and cooling the chocolate again.
* Pure chocolate liquor, which has 53 percent to 55 percent cocoa butter, is molded into blocks and sold as unsweetened or baking chocolate. Semi-sweet chocolate has extra cocoa butter and sugar added; milk chocolate has both, as well as milk and vanilla. Cocoa powder is chocolate liquor with much of the cocoa butter removed. White chocolate is mostly cocoa butter, sugar, milk and vanilla; imitations are made with vegetable oil instead of cocoa butter.
Fair trade and sustainable farming
The international system of fair trade promotes environmental protection and social and economic justice for cocoa farms and their laborers.
Cacao trees grown in the wild under the shade of taller trees of the rainforest canopy can produce fruit for more than 100 years. But thousands of acres of rainforest have been cleared to grow cacao trees. Without the natural rainforest compost, the soil becomesnutrient-poor. Sustainable farming -- in this case, planting cacao on forest edges or in light gaps created naturally by tree falls -- can prevent rainforest destruction and provide incomes for local residents.
In 2001, the average world market price for cocoa was 49 cents per pound. Fair Trade cocoa was sold for 80 cents per pound so that farmers could receive the income needed to support their families. In the Fair Trade system, child labor and forced labor are prohibited, cooperatives or other associations are democratically controlled by members, plantation workers are allowed to participate in union activities, importers agree to provide pre-harvest financing, and producers agree to implement integrated crop management and other environmental protection plans.
Among the countries with Fair Trade cooperatives are Belize, Bolivia, Cameroon, Costa Rica, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, Ghana and Nicaragua. Chocolate using Fair Trade cocoa features a Fair Trade Certified symbol on the label.
Sources: Olbrich Botanical Gardens, www.transfairusa.org, www.chocolate.org., www.hersheys.com, www.godiva.com.
If you go
* What: 'Chocolate: The Bitter and The Sweet,' a self-guided exhibit.
* When: Friday through March 28, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday.
* Where: Bolz Conservatory at Olbrich Botanical Gardens, 3330 Atwood Ave.
* Cost: $1, free for children 5 and younger and for Olbrich Botanical Society members. Also free from 10 a.m. to noon Wednesdays and Saturdays.
* Information: www.olbrich.org and 246-4550.
Other chocolatey events
* 'Intensely Chocolate Talk & Tasting' begins at 1 p.m. Jan. 31 with chocolate tales by James Nienhuis of the UW-Madison department of horticulture, who has worked with M&M Mars in Brazil. A gourmet chocolate tasting will follow until 3 p.m. The cost is $7 for the general public, $5 for Olbrich members.
* 'Chocolate: A Rainforest Food Exploration' is for children ages 6 to 11, accompanied by an adult, from 1 to 2:30 p.m. Feb. 7. Children will learn about the history of chocolate and other tropical foods during a walk through Bolz Conservatory, then decorate Valentine's Day cards with tropical plant materials. The cost is $6 per child ($1 off for members), with no charge for adults.
* 'Valentines in Paradise' is a celebration featuring dancing and desserts from 8 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Feb. 14. Sweethearts can walk through a candlelit Bolz Conservatory, visit a dessert buffet featuring fine chocolates and dance in Evjue Commons. Tickets for this benefit for Olbrich are $13 in advance and $15 at the door. Tickets will be available at Olbrich after Monday.
Registration is required for each event. For information or to register, call 246-4550 or visit www.olbrich.org.
CAPTION(S):
Phil Grout - SERRV
International Cacao pods
Cindy Cary
Cacao blooms
State Journal archives
Cocoa beans
